Acne & Corneotherapy

Acne is one of the most common skin diseases, affecting up to 50 million Amercians every year and is estimated to affect 9.4% of the global population, making it the eighth most prevalent disease worldwide.

While it more commonly affects post-pubescent teens while undergoing hormonal changes, it can occur as an adult-onset condition and often correlates with hormone fluctuations in women during their menstrual cycle and pregnancy. Acne can affect individuals for years and cause decreased self-esteem, depression, anxiety, frustration and social withdrawal.

Non-inflammatory acne can usually be resolved with over the counter products, but more severe inflammatory acne is often treated with very strong medications, topical solutions or antibiotics that can have side effects and cause imbalances in the skin over the long term.

The Corneotherapy approach to acne is a holistic method that targets the root of the problem and helps restore homeostasis to the skin barrier.

Hormones

DHT (dihydrotestosterone) is often a culprit in acne breakouts. When testosterone turns into dihydrotestosterone or DHT (via the 5a-reductase type 1 enzyme which helps to convert the testosterone to DHT) It binds itself to androgen receptors on the oil glands, stimulating excessive oil production.

One of the goals of acne treatment in corneotherapy practice is to inhibit that and stop the conversion happening. This alone is already going to yield a positive result.

This can be done by influencing the enzymatic activity. Applying Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B5, or Zinc Sulfate, topically on the skin has been shown to inhibit 5a-reductase.

Studies show this 90% inhibition of the 5a-reductase type 1 enzyme when three ingredients get used together.

Linoleic acid also inhibits 5a-reductase.

Inter-follicular epidermal Hyperproliferation
Otherwise known as a rapid production of skin cells near the hair follicle, is another cause of acne.

When the corneocyte compaction (keratinocytes at the end of their cycle) down the hair follicle is incorrect it can cause blockages in the pore.

In corneotherapy practice this is treated at the barrier level by regulating the keratinocyte life cycle and preventing that compaction from going wrong, or improving the compaction process in order to prevent ‘plugging.’ This can often be done through exfoliation with a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) such as Salicylic Acid.

Changes in the lipid content or the lipid composition

Proneness to acne has been linked to both deficiencies in essential fatty acids (EFAD) and too much lipid production. A balance in lipid content and lipid composition is necessary to eliminate acne. Taking omega fatty acid supplements and applying ceramides topically on the skin are among some of the treatments found to be beneficial in balancing lipids and sebaceous secretions.

Inflammation

It’s important to understand that inflammation is a healing response from the immune system. But when it comes to acne it can be very painful and uncomfortable and can take a toll on your self-esteem.

Inflammation occurs when bacteria enters clogged hair follicles. The body rushes to send white blood cells to fight the bacteria which can turn a simple whitehead or blackhead (non-inflammatory acne) into painful papules or pustules, nodules, and cysts. 

If your clinician is able to detect inflammation before acne starts you have a better chance of preventing outbreaks before they start. If you have advanced inflammatory acne however, all hope is not lost. Recent studies are finding promising results using probiotics (topically and internally) as a way to fortify the skin’s microbiome to guard against bacteria, reduce inflammation, and strengthen the immune system response.

Conclusion

Treating acne can be as simple as being consistent with a three step routine that works to restore the skin barrier function: Cleanse, tone, and moisturize. In 90% of cases reduction of acne can be seen in less than a month. If acne persists after diligent

application of this routine, your clinician will prescribe more complex home care regimes and treatments at the spa. Stay patient, be loving with your skin, and remain hopeful. Teamwork with your Corneotherapist will get you the results you want. It may take a little longer but your skin will be stronger for it.